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When curating a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred establishments. But, situated high among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

The compact Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. This recognition has left the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I’m utterly astonished,” remarks a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their humble shop securing such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has retained much of its original character. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the food, and this eatery certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.